Archives for the month of: December, 2009

This book was given to me in payment for the recovering of the science book recently posted in installments here. It is a small  160 x 100 x 16mm volume in mottled and heavily worn calfskin, with gold tooling around the edge of each cover and decoration on the spine.

It has marbled endpapers in the Gloster style.

The last section is lightly torn and strained giving the appearance of some of the pages being loose, but it is still firmly bound. The headbands are ‘proper’ sewn headbands, not false ones glued on. You can tell this by the broadness of the stitches and a just visible second row beneath.

 

The corners are knocked in a bit, and there is a little foxing of the pages and a very strong ‘old book’ smell. Why is it that some books are more pungent than others?

It has been well-printed, if a little heavily impressed, with generous margins and a running header between rules that give a brief outline of each page:

There is quite a bit of ink transfer from the engravings, giving each of the chapter pages a lightly stained reflected ‘ghosts.’

Golly, after that lengthy description, let’s see what we can make of the type. At first, I was fairly sure that this was set in Caslon. It’s about the right timescale, and the quality of the letters a, g  & b all seem to fit the pattern compared with a modern Adobe digital font:

I didn’t think too much about it until I began looking at some of the italic set at the beginning of each of the four seasonal ‘chapters.’ In particular, ‘k’ and ‘y’:

I guess this may be something that has been developed out of the original cut of the typeface over the years, or possibly, this could be set in an earlier typeface, probably one of the the Fell Types that were prevalent in the years leading up to this. Both  characters in the examples I found on the internet were both of the same style of the Adobe Caslon examples. The lower case ‘p’ also did not conform to my comparative samples.

Another look through my type files mostly gave up more examples and variations of what I already had found, with all of my ‘Old Style’ (read modern interpretations of Old Style) faces falling into the same pattern. I broadened my search and found something with similar characteristics; ITC Century, this version designed by Tony Stan (American Typewriter, Cheltenham) in 1975.  

Whilst there are one or two irregularities in other characters, this matches those original ‘k’ and ‘y’ shapes I was looking for. This will probably be an ongoing investigation, as they say in the movies. If anyone can identify these typeface exactly, and provide examples, I would be very, very grateful…

This book is a seventh edition, published in 1803. The book was originally published in 1800, but written during 1796-98 (the comment above refers to a letter he received prior to publication and is on the first page of the preface.)  Oddly enough, the book was turned down by a number of publishers and eventually passed on by his son to a barrister who revisited it and arranged for the woodcut illustrations, and got it published. It was reprinted three times in the first year, and by the seventh edition three years later, had sold 30,000 copies; a publishing sensation that echoes the the kind of modern success seen by the likes of J.K Rowling. Bearing in mind that in 1800, about 45% of men and 25% of women had some degree of literacy (please note that these figures were calculated from the ability of individuals to sign their names in the marriage registers!) but very few had the spare cash to buy books.

The woodcut illustrations were by Thomas Bewick, an accomplished ornithographer and wildlife illustrator and are very fine. Strangely, the first illustration is signed (the only one that is) as Thurston, another well-known engraver of the time, but I have found very little reference to this piece in any of the Bewick or Thurston online sources.

I have included super macro shot of the signature (which is in the bottom left of the image above) against a ruler showing millimetre increments to show the scale and finesse of the work:

Each season begins with an appropriate vignette of rural life, and has other incidental images throughout:

On the title page, the publishers credit reads:

PRINTED FOR VERNOR AND HOOD, POULTRY;
AND LONGMAN AND REES, PATERNOSTER ROW;
by James Swan, Angle Street, Newgate Street.
1803.

Again, I’ve tried a quick internet search to get some background on Vernor and Hood, but come up with little, except that Thomas Hood had a very interesting life and conducted a lot of business from his sickbed! Longman and Rees came up with a few more, but nothing to regale you with here. James Swan, the printer I hoped for more. The surname of the person who gave me this book is Swann, and it would have given me great pleasure to furnish him with some interesting historic facts about his namesake. I didn’t find much but did get this:

SWAN, James, printer, 7, Haberdasher’s Walk, Hoxton 1802H; 4, Angel Street, Newgate Street 1802-04; 76, Fleet Street 1804-05; Crown Court, (71), Fleet Street 1807; 76, Fleet Street 1809-29. Trading: with William Darton 1799; alone 1802-07; as Swan and son 1809-1819R; as James Swan 1820R-1829. Firm prob. established by Robert Swan 1748. Produced many broadsides, pamphlets and tracts. Crown Court office destroyed by fire with a loss of £2,000 above his insurance 20 Aug. 1807. Registered presses 1802, 1805. Plomer; Timperley 831; Todd; Brown.
source

A very dry account, but it does begin put a story to the people who printed books in the nineteenth century. Destroyed by fire? Accident or arson? How many people worked there? Under what conditions. What was their daily life like? What happened to them after the fire? I am so easily distracted.

I also like the history of individual books; the marks, notes and repairs they accumulated during their lifetimes. Towards the back, just before the Winter chapter there is a name written in pencil; Scott Abbott, I think it reads. Given the style this is written in, I am guessing that it is early nineteenth century. It is very faded, but the image below gives an accurate copy.

Again, who was he? What gave him to sign his name with such a flourish? Why that page and no other? More stories…

On the inside of the back endpaper there is a mysterious  inscription: R + m + y and nothing else. I really love this.

I have not researched this academically and admit that there are likely to be errors. If anyone can shed further light on any of the points covered in this post, please let me know.

The first bit of snow and the country grinds to a halt! I’m pretty tired of the news images of abandoned cars and endless traffic jams. I guess I’m trying to keep up some semblance of optimism despite all of the things that seem to conspire to keep me at a low ebb.

The Lestarets have been out to play in the snow, and enjoyed a very bracing winter walk along the riverside too. I’ve also been trying to make the most of the weather photographically too. No snaps of picturesque churches under a peaceful blanket of snow, or a single bud poking out through a white shroud, oh, no! I have celebrated the wonder of the ice on the windows:

 

Earlier this week my eagerly awaited christmas present to myself (bought with money sent as gifts from my wonderful in-laws) arrived. I have been bidding on some woodtype sets for the past month but getting outbid each time, just over my self-imposed limit. I call this the Yorkshire limit – up to £X’s but much less if possible! I set the limit after a  bit of research and checking out the going rate and decide what I’m willing to pay, including postage. Not a penny over. I was disappointed to be outbid the last time as the characters were a little larger and hand cut, even if they contained only A-Z.

Another search and I found these with a couple of days to go. So around mid afternoon last friday, I became the proud owner of a fine set of wood type in a handsome bold grotesque. Some are unused and there are plenty of vowels and common charcters. It will after christmas before I will get printing with these, but expect to see some typographic tomfoolery before the year is out!

Check out this great french website inspirations-typographiques-francaises to see more of these beautiful pastishe ads. The whole site is entirely in french, but with the helpful Googletranslate to hand, relatively good translations can be made. The text accompanying these images reads:

I propose today to discover the work of StarType, a former typographer who has been the lead time and worked in many printing companies to evolve and become a graphic designer later.

His love for the fine print did not etiolated then completed his work, he continues to pleasure, to create projects of all kinds: posters, labels medicinal ads etc …

Revisiting some old ideas from the golden age of advertising that promised miracles at every moment, his creations very oriented style “true-false-old, and strongly tinged zaniness does not lack a certain malice! Slang, fun to read the labels, you’ll find plenty of humor …

A true inspiration, you can admire some of these works below are true re-creations blended with visions of words and terms of the time. You will not find better resources of old French labels for your compositions!

I’m sure you can get the drift from that! I love this sort of rough translators. I hope someone in Paraguay translates something of mine and gets:

There is a frog in my bidet and the calculation engine needs a light polish before typographic shenanigins occur.

I really need to get out more.

The last time I posted a printmaking entry I set out to see if I could achieve clean, even prints from a linocut block on my nipping press. It wasn’t a scientific test, but I was generally methodical and got a couple of quality prints from what I hoped was based upon experience and on a growing understanding of the pressure required for consistent prints. It was time to see if I could do it again. This time with two new blocks, both of hands again.

I filmed all of these processes in small one and a half minute bursts with the intention of uploading them instead of stills, but I am too cheap financially cautious to pay for the video upgrade. So I have pulled some frames out that record each stage, from inking to end. (The quality of the images is not as good as some of the previous posts.)

First, the ink is rolled out on a flat smooth surface to an even thickness. I am using a water based relief ink which means cleaning up is easy and there are no fumes to worry about. This ‘rolling out’ usually takes just a couple of minutes.

The ink is then transferred to the block. I will keep re-rolling on the ink plate to refresh the roller until the block looks evenly coated. It is best to apply the ink thinly over several minutes; too much ink on the roller will fill up the shallow cuts in the block and spread beyond the raised edges.

When I think the block is fully inked it is then carefully moved over to the press. Usually, I have found I have underinked the first time around, but I would rather be under- than over-inked at this stage.

The block is placed face up centrally on a pre-marked piece of stiff board. This is not a great image, but it does show the proximity to the press at this stage; I have a ‘dirty’ inking area which is out of shot directly behind me in the image above, and a clean area around the press. It is best to be careful at this stage – I don’t want to get an inky thumb print on a fresh piece of stock. I have a pack of wet wipes on the side next to the press to keep wiping any ink off my fingers.

The stock is then carefully laid in position over the block and covered with a piece of felt I am using as a press blanket to spread the pressure evenly.

The whole pile is then (very) carefully transferred into the press and positioned centrally by eye.

A few turns until the platen reaches the base and then a firm pull. I tend to make a sort of “Gnnnh!” sound as I do this. If I don’t make this involuntary noise I find that I have not used enough pressure. Other noises, like “Uurgh!” and “ UUerrr!” tend to mean that I have exerted too much pressure, and the prints are to ‘forced’. If I make an “Arrgh!” noise it usually means I have had a hernia or left my finger in the press.

Again, carefully remove the pile and place back at the side of the press in the clean area.

Remove the felt and carefully (I’m going to stop typing in the word ‘carefully’ now – everything I do is careful!) lift up the stock from one side.

It’s a good ‘un! In this series, I printed three off before this one and pulled another two good prints after. The last one a smudged as I was removing it from the press. It was ok as a print too, but I wasn’t too disappointed. I then inked up my second block and began the process again. This time I achieve a good print on the second pull, followed by two more good ones and a patchy one.

This is the full amount of prints pulled last saturday afternoon. Three good prints from each block, thats a neat 50:50 out of 12 prints in total. I think that’s pretty good for a beginner.

Here are two of the good prints. Click for an enlargement – the originals are about half the size.

All three images have been added to the projects page.

Now the cover is dry, it’s time for a dry fitting to make sure my measurements were right. They weren’t. This time the air turned another shade of blue:

Sometimes I get cocky and don’t check things as I progress. Clearly a case of not practising what I preach. I was a few short millimetres out so the foredge of the pages protuded slightly beyond the ‘square’ of the cover:

There was no alternative but to make another cover. I added a couple of millimetres to the spine and cover boards to gain the extra I needed, and moved on to attach the endpapers. These are the sheets of often decorative paper that disguises the attachment of the book and its cover. I used some beautiful hand marbled antique paper I bought from Falkiners whilst I was in London the other week.  Here’s a close-up to show the colours and texture.

The endpapers consist of a folded sheet that is twice the width of the pages. First it is attached to the book by a thin (approx 5mm) strip of glue up against the fold, directly to the title page and put under a little pressure for about 10 minutes. Same at the back.

Then a layer of glue is applied to the back of the endpaper and scrim that will be attached to the cover. This has to be done carefully. I use pages of a magazine inserted beneath the endpaper to catch any excess glue. Don’t want to stick the pages together!

Carefully, the book is positioned into the (new) cover and the spine is pressed up against it firmly. A quick visual check at this point to see if there is equal space top and bottom.

The cover is carefully lowered onto the glued endpaper and pressed into place by hand.  Open gently and smooth any wrinkles or bubbles with a bonefolder. Turn over and repeat on the back.

Out to the press now. After putting some felt on the base and a couple of J-cloths on top to prevent any marks transferring from the press, the book was slipped into place, with only about 15mm clearance.

A goodly amount of pressure was applied and it was off to clear up.

The next day and here it is.

When the dark blue cover is opened, you are met by a riot of russets, pinks, yellows and black! I’m glad this went well as I only bought one sheet of this paper!

The original colour of the endpapers is a pale pink and provides a transitional colour stage before the yellowed book pages themselves.

All done. It’s not perfect, but I have made a durable working cover that should protect this book for a good few years more.

Having stripped off the old spine coverings and made the cover, it was time to get down to some of the stuff that is hidden when the book is finished. First I glued on new headbands with some blue/silver striped stock. I know that there are lots of ‘proper’ bookbinders out there that will be screaming “No! not fake headbands” at the screen, but these are to replace the old fake ones I removed previously. Headbands were originally part of the binding process and added some extra strength and protection to the book as it was pulled by the spine from a bookshelf. As the manufacturing process became mechanised, stitched headbands were replaced with fake ones like this, sewn to a cotton tape and glued into place. These have no practical function, just a decorative one.

Then a layer of scrim is glued over the spine.

A generous amount of glue is applied, which softens the scrim against the spine. The scrim adds most of strength to the joints between the spine and covers.

A strip of thin craft paper is applied to the glued-up spine. This was cut to size following the measurements taken previously. It is always a good idea to do as much preparation before you start these things as once you begin glueing, you tend to move through the process quite quickly. The paper, headbands and scrim were all measured, cut and ‘offered up’ (held into place to make a visual check that they were correct) before I started gluing.

The paper lining strip was manoeuvred into place by fingertip pressure and then smoothed with a cloth. My trusty bonescorer was then used to burnish, ensuring good contact and adhesion.

The book has to be left to dry fully now.

The next stage will be making and inserting the endpapers, then attaching the cover to the book. Ooh!

It’s time to make a start on re-covering this old science book. I was setting this image up and the texture of the spine reminded me of the bark of London Plane trees. Unfortunately, as good as this texture is, all this loose material needs to come off so that I can attach new stuff.

For the most part, I used the back of a scalpel, and a clean wooden modelling tool to gently prise off the (fake) headbands and peel off the outer surfaces of the previous cover material. I soon ended up with a lot of flakey old paper and a slightly furry spine:

This was lightly rubbed with white spirit to soften the adhesive so further layers could be rubbed off. This left a very thin coating of paper covering the bound edges of the signatures. Further spirit and rubbing would have taken this off, but I had begun to feel the spine loosening a little and decided to seek some advice on the internet. I was trawling through many entries on a bookbinding forum (which will remain anonymous for now until I check out a few more things, as I did read some fairly odd stuff there – not all of it on bookbinding either!) and came across someone who had got as far as I had and then left this remainder on. A few others confirmed that they had too, and it seemed to be a reasonably common ’amateur’ fix. One that would probably make the professionals cringe and throw up their arms in horror. Sorry.

Following the advice on the web, I burnished the remaining layer with a bonefolder to achieve a smooth finish, and gave this a light coat of diluted pva (70:30 pva to water) and put this aside to dry.

The next stage was to cut the cover boards from 3mm greyboard. There was a lot of careful measuring and a bit of ‘guestimation’ here, as the book was old, dog-eared and a bit out of square. I expect that this cover will not be perfect and will be used as a practice to get all the measurements and the production techniques right.

I allowed for 6-8 mm in from the rounded edge of the spine for the Canadian fold, and aimed for a 3mm square (the extended part of the book cover that protects the edge of the book) on three sides. It was a little vague on  the foredge.

I attached a spare bit of buckram to one of the boards with masking tape and positioned the book in place, with the other board positioned on top.

The buckram was then lifted and gently curled around the spine until it was snug, but not tight. More masking tape to secure it in place.

A check now: I tightly gripped the book and covers to make sure they didn’t move (they are not attached to each other yet) and turned it around to make a visual check that everything was aligned.

Laying it back down, I opened it out and put the book to one side. Please note the bottle of Fentimans Curiosity Cola. I think I am becoming addicted to this. It is expensive but, oh boy, does it taste good – just the thing for a Decembers’ evening! (Please note, that this is not an advertisement, but I am open to sponsorship deals!)

It’s measuring time. To any of my students who have ever asked me “what are the measurements?” for anything, please note that measuring is the best way of obtaining this information, rather than relying on someone else, or hoping that the information on a website is correct! After all, where do you think I get my measurements from?

I have a number of rulers, all for different purposes; metal ones for cutting, long ones, short ones, and this handy little clear one from MUJI (again, open to sponsorship!) which is ideal for booky type measuring, as the increments begin from the edge, and are minimally marked with millimetre dashes and perpendicular 1cm spaced fine lines. This image shows the measure of the distance between the two coverboards.

From the sublime to the ridiculous. In order to measure the width of the rounded spine, I laid a strip of buckram over and marked off the width. The measurement was then taken from the strip when laid flat.

Whenever a student asks me whether they need to know any maths to be a graphic designer, the answer will always be yes, but get yourself a good calculator! I’m sure many of my previous students over the last nineteen years will back me up on this, particularly those who ignored my advice and made some spectacular (and expensive) errors!

Once the dimensions of the cover paper have been established, all must be ruled out lightly in pencil. I am using some dark blue buckram for this cover, as it is durable enough for this type of use. Remember, although this is a cherished book from a private collection, it will not need to withstand excessive handling, but because of its size and weight, it will definitely be handled firmly. Why do you think the original covers came off?

A visual check with the cover boards laid out, and the spine measured and cut from a stiff but flexible card. I have decided to add a little detail to the spine by adding some additional strips of card to imitate earlier bindings which was common at the time that this book was published. Fake raised bands can be found on many books dating from the 1800′s to the present day.

Here is a close up showing the thickness of the spine card and an additional raised band. It is worth noting here that I am also teaching myself how to cover books that are properly bound over cords (not faked like this), which this technique imitates. I have made many mistakes. Many.

All the measurements check out so it’s time to assemble everything. First, to apply the glue to the cover paper, thinly but evenly, taking care not to splash too much around and avoid transferring it to the other side.

The edges are turned in and pulled hard, and smoothed out with a cloth. Top and bottom first, and then nipping down the corners before folding over the two sides.

A poor quality image after it had been rubbed and smoothed. What was I thinking? I took at least 4 of each stage! The real cover was much more focussed and better lit than this!

And the inevitable close-up showing the effect of the raised bands.

This book cover is too big to lay flat in my press, so it’s back to the methods that stood me in good stead for at least a year. Two big books, with a good stack of National Geographic magazines on top. Off to bed.

I’ll come back to this in a few days. I am yearning to print and have some linocuts to complete…

ADDITIONAL
Mrs. Lestaret will not let me leave this on the dining room table for a few days. It will be cleared up in the morning!


Rice’s Architectural Primer by Matthew Rice
The Time Travellers Wife by Audrey Niffenegger
The Heart of the Cobra by Ryszard Kapuscinski (Penguin Great Journeys)
The Shipwrecked Men by Alvar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca (Penguin Great Journeys)
The Piano Tuner by Daniel Mason

and about halfway through
The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón

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