Time to cover the two halves of the box. I’ve bought some wrinkled gold paper, printed on one side with roses. I intend to use the non-printed side to the outside obviously. The wrinkles ought to hide any minor creases I may make too.
The measuring is crucial here too, and I checked my measurements too this time! I needed to cut a length that was longer than the three main sides and wide enought to cover the inside and outside of the depth.
Following this comes the tricky business of gluing and fold the corners. The glue is a dilution of PVA and is applied directly to the board, rather than the paper as it becomes fragile too quickly. After placing the first side into position leaving a 20mm lip on the bottom, the next side is glued and firmly positioned. Obviously, the third side follows. the bottom lip is then trimmed at the corners and glued down, working it over with a bone folder for maximum adhesion:
Once the bottom lip is glued, the top sections need to be cut at the corners to ensure that they meet snugly in the corners and don’t foul up against each other. There is a technique to this, which I’ll probably go into at another time.
Again, more gluing, folding and working over with the bone folder until all remaining peices are firmly fixed.
The final part of this is to cut a floor liner, again with an overlap to wrap under the floor. Then repeat the lot again for the other half and hey presto!
The case that holds the two halves is made as you would a casebound book; two large panels that extend beyond the length and width by about 4mm each, and a spine strip that is exactly the same width as the depth of the block. Paste down onto the cover paper, add some strips of scrim to strengthen the hinge folds and paste over another strip of cover paper to line the inside of the spine.
All the pieces here are then weighted down with heavy books for the rest of the day. The next instalment will cover the final assembly and the finished box… stay tuned.